In Singapore’s competitive hawker trade, where the unsuccessful throw in the towel and close down within a few years – months, even, names like Fei Siong, Liao Fan Hawker Chan and Li Xin Teochew Fishball Noodles stand out. Among the 13,882 licensed hawkers here, according to official statistics in 2019, few have lasted as long or done as well as those heritage brands. Li Xin, for instance, has been in business since around 1968, when it was just a pushcart stall. But what’s also notable about those famous names is how they have become chains or part of big businesses. Li Xin has 15 outlets across Singapore today. Gao Ji Food, which started out selling Koo Kee Yong Tow Foo Mee, has 63 food stalls and restaurants in Singapore and overseas. Is this the way forward to ensure the survival of the hawker culture in Singapore, as the image of the individual, independent hawker fades away without any succession plans? There are undoubtably advantages to commercialising and expanding the business of selling comfort, everyday food.... Continue Reading